Songs Of Ganges

Start your journey in Varanasi, one of India’s oldest cities. Located at the confluence of two tributaries of the Ganges river, Varanasi, is a city of many names, bearing a history of over 3000 years, and had reached its zenith as a centre of religion and learning in the 7th century BC. A city steeped in spiritual sanctity and knowledge, which three great world religions – Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism, acknowledge as a place of homage. ‘Kashi’ – one of Varanasi’s older names meaning the ‘city of eternal light’ – and it is often associated with Lord Shiva, in part because of the Kashi Vishvanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva’s ‘ruler of the Universe’ avatar. Legend has it that Varanasi is a holy place to die in and the cremation banks on the sacred river Ganga host ever-lit pyres.

The following day set off for Khajuraho. Set amidst a patchwork of forests and farms, the scattered temples of Khajuraho may have been lost to history after decades of vandalism and defacing by subsequent rulers, yet a legacy of stone is not so easily effaced. Of the 85 temples built in the 10th and 11th Century, only 20 survive – and the intricacy and detail of every sculpture is sharp and well-defined, making them some of the most well-preserved monuments from that era. While the temples are largely known for their erotic art, there is an arcane symbolism within every structure. The records of the Chandela dynasty that commissioned these temples indicates that the temples were laid out with a deep understanding of the Hindu scriptures, and represent the goals of an ideal life and the path to salvation.

The next day, discover Panna – a city of tribes and sages, of rajahs and colonial loyalties, of meadows and evergreen forests, of tigers and diamonds, and your doorway to Central India. The lesser-known Panna National Park, has seen a success of the tiger reintroduction programme, a lesson that other national parks would do well to emulate. With a good mammal population and a rich raptor activity indicating a healthy ecosystem, the park offers an offbeat experience for wildlife looking to avoid the hassle and formalities of more popular destinations.

While driving from northwestwards from Panna alongside the Betwa river in the state of Madhya Pradesh, if one happens to remark upon a town with an extraordinary skyline of domed temples adorned with a thin spire at the top, you’ve probably come across Orchha. Often a stopover, between busier towns, Orchha deserves a place of its own in the list of tourist destinations, for its medieval history and architecture, its beautiful temples and unusual cenotaphs.

Gwalior, an ancient city that dates back to the 6th century has been a work in progress over time: its foundations were laid by the Naad dynasty, and were enhanced by several royal Hindu clans. During the British colonial period in India, it saw the unrest between Central India’s princely states, and emerged as a significant economic hub today. Today, the city nestles in the shadow of the Gwalior Fort – a majestic stone structure set upon a hillside carved with rock carving of Mahavira, the founder of Jainism dating to the 15th Century. With one of the oldest learning centers of Indian classical music, it bears a profound musical heritage as also celebrates an annual Tansen Music Festival in honour of Mian Tansen, the musician – poet, one of the jewels in the courts of the Mughal emperor, Akbar.